Buenas otra vez desde Peru! So today was the big day, the day to see that ever so famous site in Peru that if you mention you are traveling to this country, everyone will assume you will go there. Yes, Machu Picchu, hidden city of the Incas, UNESCO World Heritage Site, the biggest attraction in all of South America (or so they claim). I must say that it does live up to every possible superlative - magical, awe-inspiring, breathtaking. The only one it did not hit in my book was transformational. Sorry folks, but I did not feel profoundly changed by the experience, as wonderful as it was.
Anyway, it was all around terrifc, although it is quite an investment of time and effort to see it. Christine and I rose about 5:30 am (which is the dead of the morning from my perspective) to scarf down breakfast and head out to the ruins. We did have the opporunity to see the ruins at sunrise, but personally, I am more of a sunset person so I felt no need to rise an extra hour earlier to have that particular experience. At 7am, Christine and I boarded a bus for the climb to Machu Picchu. We arrived at the time before all the major tour groups descended and it was relatively tourist free. I will have to let the pictures speak for themselves, and as I mentioned earlier, it was truly spectacular.
Christine and I decided to take a midmorning break just as the tourist throngs descended, so that meant leaving via bus at around 11:30am with a load of backpackers who just finished the Inka Trail and were heading back to Agua Calientes to get a hot shower and rest. Needless to say, that was the longest 15 minute bus ride of my entire life. The bus filled with ripe backpackers, eminating a pungent odor that made me gag. Christine had to hold her scarf over her face, while I resorted to breathing through my mouth. At the midway point, I started hoping that the bus would just tumble off the side of the mountain so we could be put out of our misery as quickly as possible. Needless to say that we did survive that experience, but not something I would want other people to suffer.
After a tasty pizza in town and a nice nap, we headed back up the mountain to see Machu Picchu again at sunset. This time, the change in the light and the departure of tourist throngs made it a delight to see the rest of the ruins. While I was trying to take a cool picture of Christine standing in the midst of some of the ruins in the industrial section, Christine moved and let out a shriek - a young llama popped out from one of the doorways, baaing in search of its mother, who he had lost. One of the many unexpected surprises in such an enchanting place.
Well, after a long day of hiking and sightseeing (and a dip in the hotspring at my hotel) it is time for some much needed rest. Hopefully Christine will get the pics up soon so we can share some of our many, many pictures.
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Unfortunately, there are some annoying people at our hotel
Well, after quite the adventure, we finally made it to Aguas Calientes, base town for the excursion to Machu Picchu. The trek was actually somewhat interesting. With the traditional rail line unavailable due to the floods this past February, we had to take a bus from the city of Cusco 2/3 of the trip. Most of it was rather pleasant, riding in the front of a minivan with seven other people through the countryside of the Andean highlands. However things got particularly interesting when we arrived at the ¨off road¨ portion of the road trip. Needless to say, the road was rather rough, and both Christine and I had some difficulties because the road was extremely bumpy and we both had to use the bathroom rather badly. The combination of the two do not make for a very happy journey.
At the end of the road trip, we arrived at the makeshift train station serving as the final point of departure to Aguas Calientes. Lots of people standing around with no idea of what to do next, but at least I had the common sense to ask (in my very poor Spanish) for what we were supposed to be waiting. Aside from some pushing, shoving, and gnashing of teeth, Chistine and I made it to the front of the line to board the train.
The train journey was relatively non-eventful, very scenic but otherwise nothing of major importance along the way. We were seated in what I termed as the ¨sleepy car¨, because nearly everyone in the carriage was fast asleep. Here they are on the journey of a life time, and everyone is sleeping. Go figure.
So we finally arrived at our eco resort, the Inka Terra, located adjacent to the train tracks but an absolute world apart from the honky tonk town of Aguas Calientes. Christine and I had a delightful, yet rather large, gourmet lunch that was included in our hotel, and then we settled for a couple of massages. After all, what is vacation without a nice hot stone massage?
Now to reference the title of this blog, about the annoying people. Actually there is a group of teenage girls on a high school trip who are unfortunately staying at our hotel. Apparently they are not of the highest intellectual caliber, as they were asking each other how to spell ¨gorgeous¨ and ¨access¨. Needless to say that Christine is not happy, and she wants to reconfirm that they are not AP level. My guess is that they are around 6th grade reading level. Oh well, that is awfully cruel of me to say, but heck, that is how I roll.
Christine is getting very paranoid about the various insect life near the internet terminals, so it is time for us to depart. Tomorrow, very early in the morning, is the main event itself - Machu Picchu. I cannot wait. And if you want to know why I am not using contractions, I cannot find the apostrophe mark on this Spanish keyboard...l
Hasta Luego
Joe
At the end of the road trip, we arrived at the makeshift train station serving as the final point of departure to Aguas Calientes. Lots of people standing around with no idea of what to do next, but at least I had the common sense to ask (in my very poor Spanish) for what we were supposed to be waiting. Aside from some pushing, shoving, and gnashing of teeth, Chistine and I made it to the front of the line to board the train.
The train journey was relatively non-eventful, very scenic but otherwise nothing of major importance along the way. We were seated in what I termed as the ¨sleepy car¨, because nearly everyone in the carriage was fast asleep. Here they are on the journey of a life time, and everyone is sleeping. Go figure.
So we finally arrived at our eco resort, the Inka Terra, located adjacent to the train tracks but an absolute world apart from the honky tonk town of Aguas Calientes. Christine and I had a delightful, yet rather large, gourmet lunch that was included in our hotel, and then we settled for a couple of massages. After all, what is vacation without a nice hot stone massage?
Now to reference the title of this blog, about the annoying people. Actually there is a group of teenage girls on a high school trip who are unfortunately staying at our hotel. Apparently they are not of the highest intellectual caliber, as they were asking each other how to spell ¨gorgeous¨ and ¨access¨. Needless to say that Christine is not happy, and she wants to reconfirm that they are not AP level. My guess is that they are around 6th grade reading level. Oh well, that is awfully cruel of me to say, but heck, that is how I roll.
Christine is getting very paranoid about the various insect life near the internet terminals, so it is time for us to depart. Tomorrow, very early in the morning, is the main event itself - Machu Picchu. I cannot wait. And if you want to know why I am not using contractions, I cannot find the apostrophe mark on this Spanish keyboard...l
Hasta Luego
Joe
Friday, June 11, 2010
Relishing Those Random Experiences
When planning for this trip, we considered booking with a group tour. After seeing so many travel group packages during our yearly trek to the L.A. Times Travel and Adventure Show, it seemed like it would be a good idea; however, we chose to book everything on our own with advice from Trip Advisor and Frommers. We are very glad we did.
This morning as we sipped our cafe con leche and nibbled on our first breakfast course of pan con chocoalte (bread with chocolate), we relished in the fact that we didn't have to rush off and cram ourselves onto buses for a day-long guided tour -- like the throngs of people rushing through breakfast around us. Instead, we planned our day choosing sites and locations we found interesting: Convent of Santa Catalina, Archeological Museum of Koricancha, the Inka Mueseum, and the San Blas district.
One of the highlights of the day was when we visited the Convent of Santa Catalina (St. Catherine) which incorporates ruins of the Inca "House of Virgins," the Inca version of nuns, which still houses 13 Dominicans. While there we stumbled upon morning mass as well as the devotion to St. Catherine. The town of Cusco is celebrating Corpus Chrisi (mentioned by Joe is the previous blog) and there are enormous statues of saints that are decorated and then carried from the home parish to the Cathedral for blessing. We witnessed dozens of men lift up a 15 foot statue St. Catherine with the Archangel Michael protecting her from behind, carry it across a church, genuflect three times before the Dominicans, reverse and maneuvuer out the church door, down the cobblestone street, and into the Plaza de Armas and Cusco Cathedral. WOW! We were surrounded by locals who were so moved by this that they were crying. This is not an experience we would have had if we were on a bus . . . on a group tour . . . stopped at some kitschy souvenir stand. It was truly a moving experience and reinforces the reason why I'd book my own travel.
As for dining . . . because I just have to mention FOOD . . . we've supped at some very tasty restaurants. Today's dining expereinces included lunch at Greens, an organic restaurant serving Peruvian and Italian dishes, and dinner at the Inka Grill where we indulged in Cusco langostino ceviche, Trucha (local trout), and Aji Gallino (chicken in a cream sauce with chiles). We finished off our meal listening to traditional Andean music and a souffle of dulce de leche. All in all, a very fine day.
--Christine
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Beware the Soroche
Christine and I finally made it to Cusco today, and probably the most thrilling part was being able to actually have a somewhat reasonable conversation with the cab driver who took us to the hotel. When I told him that I spoke just "un poco Espanol", he probably thought I just knew phrases like "Thank you" and "Where is the bathroom?" However I had to try out my more complex "Would you know what the weather forecast is for the week" and "I have a fear of getting soroche", the latter of which gave him a smirk.
Christine and I are currently at the Hotel Monasterio, a converted former monastery located very close to Cusco's main square, the Plaza de Armas. The place is absolutely gorgeous, keeping all of the building's original historic charm with very nice modern touches, like wireless internet. I wanted to ask the staff "Hay fantasmas aqui" (Are there ghosts here?) but Christine does not want me to do so.
Today was a slow day, as a good measure of acclimating to the 10,000 foot elevation. That meant just some light walking around, and some good eats. Let me say, first of all, that we did have some fantastic eats today. I broke the cardinal rule of acclimatizing to high altitude - never eat heavy meals. But oh, the food was so good, especially our dinner at MAP Cafe, a gorgeous glass box of a restaurant located in Cusco's Museum of Pre-columbian art. It was a 3 course extravganza, including the delicious local cocktail, a pisco sour. Needless to say it was food on par with some of the best places I have dined, and I particularly liked Christine's warm Andean style crawfish ceviche. Incredibly tasty.
Also have to mention the great street festival going on as I type - the denizens of Cusco are celebrating the feast of Corpus Christi. Catholics in the U.S. certainly don't celebrate this holy day in Cusceno style - lots of people in the streets, all kinds of bands, partying, and dancing. Now that's my kind of holy day.
And finally, to note the subject of this entry, the soroche, which is the Spanish word for altitude sickness. I have been in constant fear since my arrival, with symptoms such as headache and nausea. Overall both Christine and I have been alright, but we got very easily winded on an afternoon walk. Here's hoping that the coca tea will help to combat the symptoms, or if not, then the oxygenated hotel room should help...
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Christine and I are currently at the Hotel Monasterio, a converted former monastery located very close to Cusco's main square, the Plaza de Armas. The place is absolutely gorgeous, keeping all of the building's original historic charm with very nice modern touches, like wireless internet. I wanted to ask the staff "Hay fantasmas aqui" (Are there ghosts here?) but Christine does not want me to do so.
Today was a slow day, as a good measure of acclimating to the 10,000 foot elevation. That meant just some light walking around, and some good eats. Let me say, first of all, that we did have some fantastic eats today. I broke the cardinal rule of acclimatizing to high altitude - never eat heavy meals. But oh, the food was so good, especially our dinner at MAP Cafe, a gorgeous glass box of a restaurant located in Cusco's Museum of Pre-columbian art. It was a 3 course extravganza, including the delicious local cocktail, a pisco sour. Needless to say it was food on par with some of the best places I have dined, and I particularly liked Christine's warm Andean style crawfish ceviche. Incredibly tasty.
Also have to mention the great street festival going on as I type - the denizens of Cusco are celebrating the feast of Corpus Christi. Catholics in the U.S. certainly don't celebrate this holy day in Cusceno style - lots of people in the streets, all kinds of bands, partying, and dancing. Now that's my kind of holy day.
And finally, to note the subject of this entry, the soroche, which is the Spanish word for altitude sickness. I have been in constant fear since my arrival, with symptoms such as headache and nausea. Overall both Christine and I have been alright, but we got very easily winded on an afternoon walk. Here's hoping that the coca tea will help to combat the symptoms, or if not, then the oxygenated hotel room should help...
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Friday, May 28, 2010
Learn More About Peru
If you'd like to learn a bit more about Peru, check our their Official Tourism site, it has some wonderful information and great images.
Peru Tourism
Peru Tourism
Itinerary
The planning and pre-packing has begun (at least for Christine) . . . just need a few more items and then everything is set . . .
June 19-12: Cuzco
June 12-14: Machu Picchu
June 14-16: Cuzco
June 16: Arequipa
June 17-20: Colca Canyon
June 19-12: Cuzco
June 12-14: Machu Picchu
June 14-16: Cuzco
June 16: Arequipa
June 17-20: Colca Canyon
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And so it comes to an end . . .
Apologies for the very delayed post. The last few days of our cruise, which officially ended and deposited us in Reykjavik yesterday mornin...
