The activities director at our current hotel, Efrain (he's like a cruise director) keeps asking "what activity do you want to do next? What can I schedule you for? Hiking? Biking? Horesback riding? Fishing?" to which my response has been "I'll let you know." It's true, part of vacation must be scheduled and planned, for example there is no way to see Machu Picchu if one does not have a plan in mind . . . but here, in the Colca Valley? A schedule of activities is not necessary . . . so today was spent on two very simple things. 1) a mini-hike to the next town and 2) SPA!!!
First the hike . . . Joe and I decided that we didn't want to wait for a guide to take us the 2 miles down river to the closest town. We were going to walk the trail, which is safe and marked, on our own . . . so that's what we did. Initially, all seemed to be going splendidly, well except for the more than occasional cow patty or llama dropping, but we manuevered our way through. Up and down hills on a dusty trail that often had a sheer drop to one side (and after probably ingesting more than a dozen gnats) , we made it about half way to our destination. We had hiked up a hill, passed some burros and cows, to what appeared to be a flat, straight path that would lead us to the town which was now visible in the distance. Proud of what we'd accomplished so far, we made our way passed some new construction but that construction was being guarded by a dog. Now, there was a small stone wall separating the road from the dog and we felt confident that we could pass with ease, despite the barking and growling we could hear. As we proceeded, Joe noticed that the wall wasn't entirely complete and the dog had popped out to do his job. We tried our very best Cesar Milan tactics on the dog . . . we walked erect and made no eye contact, we made that little shish sound Cesar does, we spoke to it in Spanish . . . nothing worked and the dog advanced on us, baring his teeth and growling. We slowly crept back because everyone knows you shouldn't run from a dog, and he followed us until he felt we were securely out of his area. Joe and I tried once again to pass the dog, but to no avail. We had to turn back and head to the hotel . . . thwarted.
To make ourselves feel better, on to activity two, the spa . . . after our harrowing morning adventure, Joe and I went to the spa. It was quite luxiourious and I also spent some time in the steam room as the air here is so dry, my whole being is dehydrated. We spent the rest of the afternoon just relaxing, reading, and winding down our trip. It seems that more guests have arrived, we are no longer (literally) the only guests at the hotel so the end of our trip comes at a fortuitous time. We had lovely dinner with the father/daughter pair of Bruce and Alannah again . . . we were the last people in the restaurant.
Tomorrow's activity . . . packing.
Buenas Noches . . .
Christine
Friday, June 18, 2010
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Condores, Caballos, & Cuy - Oh My!
Another active day from the vacation front, as well, as active as one could be while on vacation.
First up - the condors. Christine and I woke up at 5:30am (yup, you read that right, yet another 5:30am wake up call, and yes, we are on vacation) to get an early rise to see the Andean Condors. These are the world's largest flight capable birds, with wingspans of nearly 12 feet. We departed the hotel at 7am to get a headstart on the variety of European tourists who would also descend upon the area to see the condors as well. Luckily we made it in time, and our guide, Jeymi, was excellent at pointing out where they were. Indeed these are some of the most amazing creatures that I have ever seen. However, they don't like noise, and unfortunately, there was a rowdy group of British kids on their gap year who apparently had more interest in making loud conversation than watching the flight of the condors. People gave them nasty looks, but did nothing - but leave it to my sister to use her teacher voice to say, "SHHHHH!!! Be quiet!!!" which elicited an almost immediate silence from the group. Silence didn't last for long as throngs of Germans, French, Brits, Aussies, and citizens of nations from around the globe descended on this cliff sitting some 10,000 ft above the canyon below. Still, the sight of the condors was amazing, although I didn't really need to see one expel solid waste (to put it politely).
From the Condor Cross (as it is known) it was a journey back to the hotel with various stops at some amazing Inca and Pre-Inca sites. After a nice lunch and a nap, it was time for a second activity - horseback riding. We took a nice 2 hour ride up the hillside of the valley to get a great view. However, Christine seemed to be saddled with the horse who had a mind of its own. When the guide and I were on the left side of the road, Christine was on the right, and vice versa. At some points Christine's horse just didn't feel like climbing and would just stop in place.
After a refreshing dip in the thermal plunge pool and a shower to wash off the trail dust, it was time for a cooking lesson with the hotel chef. He prepared an amazingly simple dish of quinoa and alpaca filet that was absolutely delicious. Christine watched intently as I furiously took notes. The results were amazing, and hopefully we can be sharing the recipe in the future.
Finally we met the other two guests staying at our hotel, the father-daughter team of Bruce and Alana, both originally from Manhattan Beach via Colorado. Very nice people, and we had very good conversation over dinner and drinks. It was kind of odd because Alana kept calling her dad by his first name, and it was evident that her parents were divorced. We had a very raucous conversation, at times overpowering the group of 17 sitting right next to us (I think partly because Bruce and Alana had a bit too much wine...). However, Christine being the introvert found it very tiring, so we retired back to the room. I imagine we'll be bumping into them over the next couple of days.
Oh, and last but not least, I ate cuy - or known to us as guinea pig. It was breaded, fried, and mixed in with a salad. So what did it taste like? Sorry to say that old colloquialism, but it tasted like chicken.
Hasta Luego
- Joe
First up - the condors. Christine and I woke up at 5:30am (yup, you read that right, yet another 5:30am wake up call, and yes, we are on vacation) to get an early rise to see the Andean Condors. These are the world's largest flight capable birds, with wingspans of nearly 12 feet. We departed the hotel at 7am to get a headstart on the variety of European tourists who would also descend upon the area to see the condors as well. Luckily we made it in time, and our guide, Jeymi, was excellent at pointing out where they were. Indeed these are some of the most amazing creatures that I have ever seen. However, they don't like noise, and unfortunately, there was a rowdy group of British kids on their gap year who apparently had more interest in making loud conversation than watching the flight of the condors. People gave them nasty looks, but did nothing - but leave it to my sister to use her teacher voice to say, "SHHHHH!!! Be quiet!!!" which elicited an almost immediate silence from the group. Silence didn't last for long as throngs of Germans, French, Brits, Aussies, and citizens of nations from around the globe descended on this cliff sitting some 10,000 ft above the canyon below. Still, the sight of the condors was amazing, although I didn't really need to see one expel solid waste (to put it politely).
From the Condor Cross (as it is known) it was a journey back to the hotel with various stops at some amazing Inca and Pre-Inca sites. After a nice lunch and a nap, it was time for a second activity - horseback riding. We took a nice 2 hour ride up the hillside of the valley to get a great view. However, Christine seemed to be saddled with the horse who had a mind of its own. When the guide and I were on the left side of the road, Christine was on the right, and vice versa. At some points Christine's horse just didn't feel like climbing and would just stop in place.
After a refreshing dip in the thermal plunge pool and a shower to wash off the trail dust, it was time for a cooking lesson with the hotel chef. He prepared an amazingly simple dish of quinoa and alpaca filet that was absolutely delicious. Christine watched intently as I furiously took notes. The results were amazing, and hopefully we can be sharing the recipe in the future.
Finally we met the other two guests staying at our hotel, the father-daughter team of Bruce and Alana, both originally from Manhattan Beach via Colorado. Very nice people, and we had very good conversation over dinner and drinks. It was kind of odd because Alana kept calling her dad by his first name, and it was evident that her parents were divorced. We had a very raucous conversation, at times overpowering the group of 17 sitting right next to us (I think partly because Bruce and Alana had a bit too much wine...). However, Christine being the introvert found it very tiring, so we retired back to the room. I imagine we'll be bumping into them over the next couple of days.
Oh, and last but not least, I ate cuy - or known to us as guinea pig. It was breaded, fried, and mixed in with a salad. So what did it taste like? Sorry to say that old colloquialism, but it tasted like chicken.
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
The Journey and the Destination Were Well Worth It
As I write this tonight, I am sitting next to a warm fire in my cabanita snuggled up to my llama hot water bottle. Though we had an early morning and a very long drive, all of it was worth it to be able to enjoy the comforts of our current location, Las Cabanitas del Colca.
We began the morning in Arequipa, Peru's second largest city, that sits at an elevation of 8,000 feet and traveled to the Colca Valley 4 1/2 hours away reaching heights of 16,000 feet along the way. The journey took us through various ecological landscapes from the scrub brush of the lower highlands on which the threatened vicuna, the national treasure of the Andes which comes from the camelid family (think smaller and skinnier alpaca), thrive to the wetlands on which alpaca and the Peruvian Coot feed. It was an amazing landscape that can only be described as lunar -- vast sandy deserts with only large boulders that gave way to neon green covered rocks and marsh-like canals. We drove through the caldera of an extinct volcano and were at one point surrounded by some of the tallest mountains in Peru, including Ampata where archeologists discovered the intact Inca Mummy Girl, Juanita.
The highest point of our journey landed us at the Mirador De Los Andes, 16,000 feet above sea level. We were only allowed a short 10 minute stop as the air is so thin, one can easily get winded and begin to feel the effects of altitude sickness. Unfortunately, by this time in our travels I REALLY needed to use the bathroom . . . and the only one available was a stone hut a few hundered feet from the road . . . UP an embankment. It took everything I had not to run . . . or pee in my pants . . . and as I rushed into the makeshift bathroom which comprised primarily of a hole in the ground and which lacked a door, my disgust at the facilities gave way to relief. In addtion to peeing at the highest elevation I have ever been, we also took part in a local ritual of stacking rocks as a prayer and wish to the Sun god . . . here's hoping my wish comes true.
The Colca Valley lies at an elevation of about 11,000 feet and I have yet to aclimate to the altitude, though Joe believes it's psychological . . . let's just say hiking and bike riding are two activities I am putting off for awhile. However, the activity I most definitely took part in was feeding the baby alpacas and llamas!!!! We were able to bottle feed four babies, all about 2 months old and sooooo CUTE! Inti (Moon) is my favorite llama and Brownie is Joe's. I really like to take home and have my own llama . . . but I guess I'll have to be satisfied taking home a llama water bottle and an alpaca scarf.
Tomorrow, we're off to see the Andean Condors early in the morning, so buenas noches.
--Christine
We began the morning in Arequipa, Peru's second largest city, that sits at an elevation of 8,000 feet and traveled to the Colca Valley 4 1/2 hours away reaching heights of 16,000 feet along the way. The journey took us through various ecological landscapes from the scrub brush of the lower highlands on which the threatened vicuna, the national treasure of the Andes which comes from the camelid family (think smaller and skinnier alpaca), thrive to the wetlands on which alpaca and the Peruvian Coot feed. It was an amazing landscape that can only be described as lunar -- vast sandy deserts with only large boulders that gave way to neon green covered rocks and marsh-like canals. We drove through the caldera of an extinct volcano and were at one point surrounded by some of the tallest mountains in Peru, including Ampata where archeologists discovered the intact Inca Mummy Girl, Juanita.
The highest point of our journey landed us at the Mirador De Los Andes, 16,000 feet above sea level. We were only allowed a short 10 minute stop as the air is so thin, one can easily get winded and begin to feel the effects of altitude sickness. Unfortunately, by this time in our travels I REALLY needed to use the bathroom . . . and the only one available was a stone hut a few hundered feet from the road . . . UP an embankment. It took everything I had not to run . . . or pee in my pants . . . and as I rushed into the makeshift bathroom which comprised primarily of a hole in the ground and which lacked a door, my disgust at the facilities gave way to relief. In addtion to peeing at the highest elevation I have ever been, we also took part in a local ritual of stacking rocks as a prayer and wish to the Sun god . . . here's hoping my wish comes true.
The Colca Valley lies at an elevation of about 11,000 feet and I have yet to aclimate to the altitude, though Joe believes it's psychological . . . let's just say hiking and bike riding are two activities I am putting off for awhile. However, the activity I most definitely took part in was feeding the baby alpacas and llamas!!!! We were able to bottle feed four babies, all about 2 months old and sooooo CUTE! Inti (Moon) is my favorite llama and Brownie is Joe's. I really like to take home and have my own llama . . . but I guess I'll have to be satisfied taking home a llama water bottle and an alpaca scarf.
Tomorrow, we're off to see the Andean Condors early in the morning, so buenas noches.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Plane, trains, and automobiles...
That title can pretty much sum up our past couple of days in Peru. Yesterday were the train and the automobiles (well, minibus to be exact), and today was the plane. Yes, more travel around this delightful country to traverse the distances to reach the various sites. Today was a particularly big transition, traveling from Cusco to Arequipa.
In addition to travel, there was shopping. And I mean, a lot of shopping. Sweaters and scarves made of alpaca, hand crafted dolls, fine Peruvian silver, and native ceramics. To this point Christine and I had not bought many Peruvian goods, but today, I think we just went hog wild. Luckily the items in Peru were of very high quality and of low cost. And it's not the "Made in China" crap that unfortunately litters the street markets of Cusco. Case in point was a ceramic nativity scene crafted by native Peruvians - we bought a set in Arequipa (our current location) for 43 nuevos soles, which is about 15 bucks. I saw a similar set being sold at my parish bookstore for a little over $100. Now talk about bargains. Needless to say we parted with quite a few soles today, but I felt good that a very least I was contributing to the financial self sufficiency of the indigenous Peruvian people.
Other that the shop-o-rama, it was yet another travel day, as I had mentioned earlier. Nothing of interest to note, other than we have arrived safely in Arequipa, Peru's second largest city. The strangest thing was that the airport was not the kind of developing world chaos I have come to expect, but it was very quiet, and downright serene. After an uneventful cab ride, we wound up at our hotel in the middle of the historic colonial center of town. The unique aspect of this city is that many of the colonial era buildings are composed of a white volcanic stone, which gives the city a certain bright hue. It is quite nice. And another nice thing is the cosmopolitan vibe of the city - it's definitely not the tourist or backpacker domain like Cusco or Aguas Calientes. It is a refreshing change of pace.
But that's about to change again tomorrow, as Christine and I make the trek to the famed Colca Canyon, the world's deepest and highest. And at an elevation of 11,200 feet, it's even higher than the shortness-of-breath inducing Cusco. And Christine is already dreading it, but it'll be fine...
Hasta Luego
- Joe
In addition to travel, there was shopping. And I mean, a lot of shopping. Sweaters and scarves made of alpaca, hand crafted dolls, fine Peruvian silver, and native ceramics. To this point Christine and I had not bought many Peruvian goods, but today, I think we just went hog wild. Luckily the items in Peru were of very high quality and of low cost. And it's not the "Made in China" crap that unfortunately litters the street markets of Cusco. Case in point was a ceramic nativity scene crafted by native Peruvians - we bought a set in Arequipa (our current location) for 43 nuevos soles, which is about 15 bucks. I saw a similar set being sold at my parish bookstore for a little over $100. Now talk about bargains. Needless to say we parted with quite a few soles today, but I felt good that a very least I was contributing to the financial self sufficiency of the indigenous Peruvian people.
Other that the shop-o-rama, it was yet another travel day, as I had mentioned earlier. Nothing of interest to note, other than we have arrived safely in Arequipa, Peru's second largest city. The strangest thing was that the airport was not the kind of developing world chaos I have come to expect, but it was very quiet, and downright serene. After an uneventful cab ride, we wound up at our hotel in the middle of the historic colonial center of town. The unique aspect of this city is that many of the colonial era buildings are composed of a white volcanic stone, which gives the city a certain bright hue. It is quite nice. And another nice thing is the cosmopolitan vibe of the city - it's definitely not the tourist or backpacker domain like Cusco or Aguas Calientes. It is a refreshing change of pace.
But that's about to change again tomorrow, as Christine and I make the trek to the famed Colca Canyon, the world's deepest and highest. And at an elevation of 11,200 feet, it's even higher than the shortness-of-breath inducing Cusco. And Christine is already dreading it, but it'll be fine...
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Monday, June 14, 2010
Let's Just Make It a Travel Day
After our long adventure at the ruins yesterday, we debated long and hard whether or not we'd climb Huayana Picchu -- the very large mountain adjacent to Machu Picchu where one can get spectacular aerial views of the ruins. However, the assent up Huayana Picchu would entail rising at 5 am (because they only allow 400 people in a day), purchasing another day pass to Machu Picchu, purchasing another round trip ticket on the bus (with the chance of taking the bus down with another group of smelly Inca Trail hikers), trekking across the ruins, and then ascending 600 feet directly up on steep steps and ladders at an altitude of 9,000 feet . . . needless to say, we took some really great photos yesterday.
Today, after 10 hours of sleep, we arose at 8 then sauntered into breakfast -- the only ones there -- and delighted in quinoa pancakes, fresh squeezed melon juice, and various pastries. To kill time until our train departed for our return to Cusco, we took an amazing Orchid walk through the grounds of our hotel . . . did you know that there are 325 varieties of orchids that are extant only in Machu Picchu? We didn't either and we took lovely photos of those that were blooming. After our Orchid walk, we actually worked (yes, Joe spent some time filling out information for his office while I checked grades on Powerschool) but that only lasted 30 minutes before we headed for a "De-Stress Massage" . . . all off that work required some spa time.
Our PeruRail train bound for Cusco departed at 5:30pm . . . initially, we wanted to purchase tickets on the "New Backpacker" car as it was more economical, but when we went to purchase our tickets online before we left we discovered that all of those tickets were SOLD OUT! We were forced to purchase the very expensive "Special Service" tickets, and though those tickets set us back quite a bit, it was a better choice in lieu of taking local buses (and after we saw the local buses, we were thankful for purchasing the expensive tickets). The "Special Service" was an amazing experience, right out of the old days of luxury train travel. We had our own tableclothed table, wing-back chairs, hot-towels upon entry, drinks, snacks, chocolates . . . it was very, very nice. We did still have a two hour drive back, in the dark, along very curvy mountain roads, some of which were unpaved, to return to Cusco as the rail line is still being repaired because of the damage from the rains and mudslides this passed February, but still, the only complaint I have is that I had to print out four copies of each of our tickets and they only took one . . . waste of paper!
Buenas Noches desde Cusco . . . necesitamos dormir.
Hasta Manana,
Christine
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Amazing Sights, yet Smelly Buses
Buenas otra vez desde Peru! So today was the big day, the day to see that ever so famous site in Peru that if you mention you are traveling to this country, everyone will assume you will go there. Yes, Machu Picchu, hidden city of the Incas, UNESCO World Heritage Site, the biggest attraction in all of South America (or so they claim). I must say that it does live up to every possible superlative - magical, awe-inspiring, breathtaking. The only one it did not hit in my book was transformational. Sorry folks, but I did not feel profoundly changed by the experience, as wonderful as it was.
Anyway, it was all around terrifc, although it is quite an investment of time and effort to see it. Christine and I rose about 5:30 am (which is the dead of the morning from my perspective) to scarf down breakfast and head out to the ruins. We did have the opporunity to see the ruins at sunrise, but personally, I am more of a sunset person so I felt no need to rise an extra hour earlier to have that particular experience. At 7am, Christine and I boarded a bus for the climb to Machu Picchu. We arrived at the time before all the major tour groups descended and it was relatively tourist free. I will have to let the pictures speak for themselves, and as I mentioned earlier, it was truly spectacular.
Christine and I decided to take a midmorning break just as the tourist throngs descended, so that meant leaving via bus at around 11:30am with a load of backpackers who just finished the Inka Trail and were heading back to Agua Calientes to get a hot shower and rest. Needless to say, that was the longest 15 minute bus ride of my entire life. The bus filled with ripe backpackers, eminating a pungent odor that made me gag. Christine had to hold her scarf over her face, while I resorted to breathing through my mouth. At the midway point, I started hoping that the bus would just tumble off the side of the mountain so we could be put out of our misery as quickly as possible. Needless to say that we did survive that experience, but not something I would want other people to suffer.
After a tasty pizza in town and a nice nap, we headed back up the mountain to see Machu Picchu again at sunset. This time, the change in the light and the departure of tourist throngs made it a delight to see the rest of the ruins. While I was trying to take a cool picture of Christine standing in the midst of some of the ruins in the industrial section, Christine moved and let out a shriek - a young llama popped out from one of the doorways, baaing in search of its mother, who he had lost. One of the many unexpected surprises in such an enchanting place.
Well, after a long day of hiking and sightseeing (and a dip in the hotspring at my hotel) it is time for some much needed rest. Hopefully Christine will get the pics up soon so we can share some of our many, many pictures.
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Anyway, it was all around terrifc, although it is quite an investment of time and effort to see it. Christine and I rose about 5:30 am (which is the dead of the morning from my perspective) to scarf down breakfast and head out to the ruins. We did have the opporunity to see the ruins at sunrise, but personally, I am more of a sunset person so I felt no need to rise an extra hour earlier to have that particular experience. At 7am, Christine and I boarded a bus for the climb to Machu Picchu. We arrived at the time before all the major tour groups descended and it was relatively tourist free. I will have to let the pictures speak for themselves, and as I mentioned earlier, it was truly spectacular.
Christine and I decided to take a midmorning break just as the tourist throngs descended, so that meant leaving via bus at around 11:30am with a load of backpackers who just finished the Inka Trail and were heading back to Agua Calientes to get a hot shower and rest. Needless to say, that was the longest 15 minute bus ride of my entire life. The bus filled with ripe backpackers, eminating a pungent odor that made me gag. Christine had to hold her scarf over her face, while I resorted to breathing through my mouth. At the midway point, I started hoping that the bus would just tumble off the side of the mountain so we could be put out of our misery as quickly as possible. Needless to say that we did survive that experience, but not something I would want other people to suffer.
After a tasty pizza in town and a nice nap, we headed back up the mountain to see Machu Picchu again at sunset. This time, the change in the light and the departure of tourist throngs made it a delight to see the rest of the ruins. While I was trying to take a cool picture of Christine standing in the midst of some of the ruins in the industrial section, Christine moved and let out a shriek - a young llama popped out from one of the doorways, baaing in search of its mother, who he had lost. One of the many unexpected surprises in such an enchanting place.
Well, after a long day of hiking and sightseeing (and a dip in the hotspring at my hotel) it is time for some much needed rest. Hopefully Christine will get the pics up soon so we can share some of our many, many pictures.
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Unfortunately, there are some annoying people at our hotel
Well, after quite the adventure, we finally made it to Aguas Calientes, base town for the excursion to Machu Picchu. The trek was actually somewhat interesting. With the traditional rail line unavailable due to the floods this past February, we had to take a bus from the city of Cusco 2/3 of the trip. Most of it was rather pleasant, riding in the front of a minivan with seven other people through the countryside of the Andean highlands. However things got particularly interesting when we arrived at the ¨off road¨ portion of the road trip. Needless to say, the road was rather rough, and both Christine and I had some difficulties because the road was extremely bumpy and we both had to use the bathroom rather badly. The combination of the two do not make for a very happy journey.
At the end of the road trip, we arrived at the makeshift train station serving as the final point of departure to Aguas Calientes. Lots of people standing around with no idea of what to do next, but at least I had the common sense to ask (in my very poor Spanish) for what we were supposed to be waiting. Aside from some pushing, shoving, and gnashing of teeth, Chistine and I made it to the front of the line to board the train.
The train journey was relatively non-eventful, very scenic but otherwise nothing of major importance along the way. We were seated in what I termed as the ¨sleepy car¨, because nearly everyone in the carriage was fast asleep. Here they are on the journey of a life time, and everyone is sleeping. Go figure.
So we finally arrived at our eco resort, the Inka Terra, located adjacent to the train tracks but an absolute world apart from the honky tonk town of Aguas Calientes. Christine and I had a delightful, yet rather large, gourmet lunch that was included in our hotel, and then we settled for a couple of massages. After all, what is vacation without a nice hot stone massage?
Now to reference the title of this blog, about the annoying people. Actually there is a group of teenage girls on a high school trip who are unfortunately staying at our hotel. Apparently they are not of the highest intellectual caliber, as they were asking each other how to spell ¨gorgeous¨ and ¨access¨. Needless to say that Christine is not happy, and she wants to reconfirm that they are not AP level. My guess is that they are around 6th grade reading level. Oh well, that is awfully cruel of me to say, but heck, that is how I roll.
Christine is getting very paranoid about the various insect life near the internet terminals, so it is time for us to depart. Tomorrow, very early in the morning, is the main event itself - Machu Picchu. I cannot wait. And if you want to know why I am not using contractions, I cannot find the apostrophe mark on this Spanish keyboard...l
Hasta Luego
Joe
At the end of the road trip, we arrived at the makeshift train station serving as the final point of departure to Aguas Calientes. Lots of people standing around with no idea of what to do next, but at least I had the common sense to ask (in my very poor Spanish) for what we were supposed to be waiting. Aside from some pushing, shoving, and gnashing of teeth, Chistine and I made it to the front of the line to board the train.
The train journey was relatively non-eventful, very scenic but otherwise nothing of major importance along the way. We were seated in what I termed as the ¨sleepy car¨, because nearly everyone in the carriage was fast asleep. Here they are on the journey of a life time, and everyone is sleeping. Go figure.
So we finally arrived at our eco resort, the Inka Terra, located adjacent to the train tracks but an absolute world apart from the honky tonk town of Aguas Calientes. Christine and I had a delightful, yet rather large, gourmet lunch that was included in our hotel, and then we settled for a couple of massages. After all, what is vacation without a nice hot stone massage?
Now to reference the title of this blog, about the annoying people. Actually there is a group of teenage girls on a high school trip who are unfortunately staying at our hotel. Apparently they are not of the highest intellectual caliber, as they were asking each other how to spell ¨gorgeous¨ and ¨access¨. Needless to say that Christine is not happy, and she wants to reconfirm that they are not AP level. My guess is that they are around 6th grade reading level. Oh well, that is awfully cruel of me to say, but heck, that is how I roll.
Christine is getting very paranoid about the various insect life near the internet terminals, so it is time for us to depart. Tomorrow, very early in the morning, is the main event itself - Machu Picchu. I cannot wait. And if you want to know why I am not using contractions, I cannot find the apostrophe mark on this Spanish keyboard...l
Hasta Luego
Joe
Friday, June 11, 2010
Relishing Those Random Experiences
When planning for this trip, we considered booking with a group tour. After seeing so many travel group packages during our yearly trek to the L.A. Times Travel and Adventure Show, it seemed like it would be a good idea; however, we chose to book everything on our own with advice from Trip Advisor and Frommers. We are very glad we did.
This morning as we sipped our cafe con leche and nibbled on our first breakfast course of pan con chocoalte (bread with chocolate), we relished in the fact that we didn't have to rush off and cram ourselves onto buses for a day-long guided tour -- like the throngs of people rushing through breakfast around us. Instead, we planned our day choosing sites and locations we found interesting: Convent of Santa Catalina, Archeological Museum of Koricancha, the Inka Mueseum, and the San Blas district.
One of the highlights of the day was when we visited the Convent of Santa Catalina (St. Catherine) which incorporates ruins of the Inca "House of Virgins," the Inca version of nuns, which still houses 13 Dominicans. While there we stumbled upon morning mass as well as the devotion to St. Catherine. The town of Cusco is celebrating Corpus Chrisi (mentioned by Joe is the previous blog) and there are enormous statues of saints that are decorated and then carried from the home parish to the Cathedral for blessing. We witnessed dozens of men lift up a 15 foot statue St. Catherine with the Archangel Michael protecting her from behind, carry it across a church, genuflect three times before the Dominicans, reverse and maneuvuer out the church door, down the cobblestone street, and into the Plaza de Armas and Cusco Cathedral. WOW! We were surrounded by locals who were so moved by this that they were crying. This is not an experience we would have had if we were on a bus . . . on a group tour . . . stopped at some kitschy souvenir stand. It was truly a moving experience and reinforces the reason why I'd book my own travel.
As for dining . . . because I just have to mention FOOD . . . we've supped at some very tasty restaurants. Today's dining expereinces included lunch at Greens, an organic restaurant serving Peruvian and Italian dishes, and dinner at the Inka Grill where we indulged in Cusco langostino ceviche, Trucha (local trout), and Aji Gallino (chicken in a cream sauce with chiles). We finished off our meal listening to traditional Andean music and a souffle of dulce de leche. All in all, a very fine day.
--Christine
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Beware the Soroche
Christine and I finally made it to Cusco today, and probably the most thrilling part was being able to actually have a somewhat reasonable conversation with the cab driver who took us to the hotel. When I told him that I spoke just "un poco Espanol", he probably thought I just knew phrases like "Thank you" and "Where is the bathroom?" However I had to try out my more complex "Would you know what the weather forecast is for the week" and "I have a fear of getting soroche", the latter of which gave him a smirk.
Christine and I are currently at the Hotel Monasterio, a converted former monastery located very close to Cusco's main square, the Plaza de Armas. The place is absolutely gorgeous, keeping all of the building's original historic charm with very nice modern touches, like wireless internet. I wanted to ask the staff "Hay fantasmas aqui" (Are there ghosts here?) but Christine does not want me to do so.
Today was a slow day, as a good measure of acclimating to the 10,000 foot elevation. That meant just some light walking around, and some good eats. Let me say, first of all, that we did have some fantastic eats today. I broke the cardinal rule of acclimatizing to high altitude - never eat heavy meals. But oh, the food was so good, especially our dinner at MAP Cafe, a gorgeous glass box of a restaurant located in Cusco's Museum of Pre-columbian art. It was a 3 course extravganza, including the delicious local cocktail, a pisco sour. Needless to say it was food on par with some of the best places I have dined, and I particularly liked Christine's warm Andean style crawfish ceviche. Incredibly tasty.
Also have to mention the great street festival going on as I type - the denizens of Cusco are celebrating the feast of Corpus Christi. Catholics in the U.S. certainly don't celebrate this holy day in Cusceno style - lots of people in the streets, all kinds of bands, partying, and dancing. Now that's my kind of holy day.
And finally, to note the subject of this entry, the soroche, which is the Spanish word for altitude sickness. I have been in constant fear since my arrival, with symptoms such as headache and nausea. Overall both Christine and I have been alright, but we got very easily winded on an afternoon walk. Here's hoping that the coca tea will help to combat the symptoms, or if not, then the oxygenated hotel room should help...
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Christine and I are currently at the Hotel Monasterio, a converted former monastery located very close to Cusco's main square, the Plaza de Armas. The place is absolutely gorgeous, keeping all of the building's original historic charm with very nice modern touches, like wireless internet. I wanted to ask the staff "Hay fantasmas aqui" (Are there ghosts here?) but Christine does not want me to do so.
Today was a slow day, as a good measure of acclimating to the 10,000 foot elevation. That meant just some light walking around, and some good eats. Let me say, first of all, that we did have some fantastic eats today. I broke the cardinal rule of acclimatizing to high altitude - never eat heavy meals. But oh, the food was so good, especially our dinner at MAP Cafe, a gorgeous glass box of a restaurant located in Cusco's Museum of Pre-columbian art. It was a 3 course extravganza, including the delicious local cocktail, a pisco sour. Needless to say it was food on par with some of the best places I have dined, and I particularly liked Christine's warm Andean style crawfish ceviche. Incredibly tasty.
Also have to mention the great street festival going on as I type - the denizens of Cusco are celebrating the feast of Corpus Christi. Catholics in the U.S. certainly don't celebrate this holy day in Cusceno style - lots of people in the streets, all kinds of bands, partying, and dancing. Now that's my kind of holy day.
And finally, to note the subject of this entry, the soroche, which is the Spanish word for altitude sickness. I have been in constant fear since my arrival, with symptoms such as headache and nausea. Overall both Christine and I have been alright, but we got very easily winded on an afternoon walk. Here's hoping that the coca tea will help to combat the symptoms, or if not, then the oxygenated hotel room should help...
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Friday, May 28, 2010
Learn More About Peru
If you'd like to learn a bit more about Peru, check our their Official Tourism site, it has some wonderful information and great images.
Peru Tourism
Peru Tourism
Itinerary
The planning and pre-packing has begun (at least for Christine) . . . just need a few more items and then everything is set . . .
June 19-12: Cuzco
June 12-14: Machu Picchu
June 14-16: Cuzco
June 16: Arequipa
June 17-20: Colca Canyon
June 19-12: Cuzco
June 12-14: Machu Picchu
June 14-16: Cuzco
June 16: Arequipa
June 17-20: Colca Canyon
Friday, March 26, 2010
Peru
Accomodations:
Las Casitas del Colca -- Colca Valley
Hotel Monasterio -- Cuzco
Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo -- Aguas Calientes
Casa Andina Private Collection -- Arequipa
Transportaion:
PeruRail
Las Casitas del Colca -- Colca Valley
Hotel Monasterio -- Cuzco
Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo -- Aguas Calientes
Casa Andina Private Collection -- Arequipa
Transportaion:
PeruRail
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And so it comes to an end . . .
Apologies for the very delayed post. The last few days of our cruise, which officially ended and deposited us in Reykjavik yesterday mornin...
