Thursday, June 10, 2010

Beware the Soroche

Christine and I finally made it to Cusco today, and probably the most thrilling part was being able to actually have a somewhat reasonable conversation with the cab driver who took us to the hotel.  When I told him that I spoke just "un poco Espanol", he probably thought I just knew phrases like "Thank you" and "Where is the bathroom?"  However I had to try out my more complex "Would you know what the weather forecast is for the week" and "I have a fear of getting soroche", the latter of which gave him a smirk.

Christine and I are currently at the Hotel Monasterio, a converted former monastery located very close to Cusco's main square, the Plaza de Armas.  The place is absolutely gorgeous, keeping all of the building's original historic charm with very nice modern touches, like wireless internet.  I wanted to ask the staff "Hay fantasmas aqui" (Are there ghosts here?) but Christine does not want me to do so.

Today was a slow day, as a good measure of acclimating to the 10,000 foot elevation.  That meant just some light walking around, and some good eats.  Let me say, first of all, that we did have some fantastic eats today.  I broke the cardinal rule of acclimatizing to high altitude - never eat heavy meals.  But oh, the food was so good, especially our dinner at MAP Cafe, a gorgeous glass box of a restaurant located in Cusco's Museum of Pre-columbian art.  It was a 3 course extravganza, including the delicious local cocktail, a pisco sour.  Needless to say it was food on par with some of the best places I have dined, and I particularly liked Christine's warm Andean style crawfish ceviche.  Incredibly tasty.

Also have to mention the great street festival going on as I type - the denizens of Cusco are celebrating the feast of Corpus Christi.  Catholics in the U.S. certainly don't celebrate this holy day in Cusceno style - lots of people in the streets, all kinds of bands, partying, and dancing.  Now that's my kind of holy day.

And finally, to note the subject of this entry, the soroche, which is the Spanish word for altitude sickness.  I have been in constant fear since my arrival, with symptoms such as headache and nausea.  Overall both Christine and I have been alright, but we got very easily winded on an afternoon walk.  Here's hoping that the coca tea will help to combat the symptoms, or if not, then the oxygenated hotel room should help...

Hasta Luego

- Joe

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