When planning for this trip, we considered booking with a group tour. After seeing so many travel group packages during our yearly trek to the L.A. Times Travel and Adventure Show, it seemed like it would be a good idea; however, we chose to book everything on our own with advice from Trip Advisor and Frommers. We are very glad we did.
This morning as we sipped our cafe con leche and nibbled on our first breakfast course of pan con chocoalte (bread with chocolate), we relished in the fact that we didn't have to rush off and cram ourselves onto buses for a day-long guided tour -- like the throngs of people rushing through breakfast around us. Instead, we planned our day choosing sites and locations we found interesting: Convent of Santa Catalina, Archeological Museum of Koricancha, the Inka Mueseum, and the San Blas district.
One of the highlights of the day was when we visited the Convent of Santa Catalina (St. Catherine) which incorporates ruins of the Inca "House of Virgins," the Inca version of nuns, which still houses 13 Dominicans. While there we stumbled upon morning mass as well as the devotion to St. Catherine. The town of Cusco is celebrating Corpus Chrisi (mentioned by Joe is the previous blog) and there are enormous statues of saints that are decorated and then carried from the home parish to the Cathedral for blessing. We witnessed dozens of men lift up a 15 foot statue St. Catherine with the Archangel Michael protecting her from behind, carry it across a church, genuflect three times before the Dominicans, reverse and maneuvuer out the church door, down the cobblestone street, and into the Plaza de Armas and Cusco Cathedral. WOW! We were surrounded by locals who were so moved by this that they were crying. This is not an experience we would have had if we were on a bus . . . on a group tour . . . stopped at some kitschy souvenir stand. It was truly a moving experience and reinforces the reason why I'd book my own travel.
As for dining . . . because I just have to mention FOOD . . . we've supped at some very tasty restaurants. Today's dining expereinces included lunch at Greens, an organic restaurant serving Peruvian and Italian dishes, and dinner at the Inka Grill where we indulged in Cusco langostino ceviche, Trucha (local trout), and Aji Gallino (chicken in a cream sauce with chiles). We finished off our meal listening to traditional Andean music and a souffle of dulce de leche. All in all, a very fine day.
--Christine
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