It's actually been quite beautiful these last two days in Africa but the Toto song did aptly play on the radio as we were making our drive to the city of Outdshoorn in the Klein Karoo region of the Western Cape. Our day was spent driving inland along the not-so-utilized Route 62. The main highway in South Africa is the N1, and Route 62 has suffered much the same fate as our beloved Route 66. Many of the small towns (called dorpies) have even branded themselves with large Route 62 signs that are the carbon copy of our Route 66 signs. The drive itself was quite scenic with changing landscapes of rolling hills, vineyards, and grazing cattle (even some Ostrich!!!) along the way. We stopped for lunch in the town of Montagu and enjoyed Sunday brunch in an Art Deco hotel filled with locals -- lunch included a cream of cauliflower and bleu cheese soup, spinach and mushroom quiche, rare roast beef, and finished off with some cake soaked in rum sauce.
We actually made good time for I quickly learned to yield to faster moving vehicles and how to overtake slower moving ones, though I am driving on the left...Joe helps by yelling at me that I'm drifting too far to the left and onto the soft shoulder. I've tried to hug the right but as an oncoming car approaches, it always seems I'm too close to the center line and I drift back to the left. I still spend most of my energy reminding myself to stay LEFT rather than looking around at the scenery...I'm also afraid of hitting someone who is walking alongside the road or running across the highway, not to mention roadsigns that warn of gazelle and tortoise crossing. We arrived in our hotel, The Rosehof Country House, by 5:00 pm and had a wonderful dinner that included rack of lamb and ostrich fillet. Tomorrow, we're off to see the Cango Caves (dripstone caverns), visit a working ostrich farm, and hopefully, pet some cheetahs!
--Christine
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Cape Town, 3 days and 10,000 calories later
So tonight marks Christine's and my final night in Cape Town, the "Mother City". It has been an exciting and educational three days, and I still can't believe that we're in Africa, albeit the least African city on the entire continent.
So few days, so many things to do. We did the normal tourist activities, like the requisite visit to the beautiful Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and a drive along the scenic Atlantic Coast. The visit was not without is disappointments, however. Robben Island, the UNESCO World Heritage Site that was the site of imprisonment for many in the anti-apartheid movement including Nelson Mandela, was completely sold out. Bummer. Then, the rotating cable car that takes people to the top of famously beautiful Table Mountain was closed for annual maintenance. Double Bummer. But we made due with ither various interesting activities to fill the time.
One was the absolute fantastic walking tour we took of Cape Town today, which traced the historical roots of the area and the emergence and fall of Apartheid. Its fascinating to see all the places, like Archbishop Desmond Tutu's church or the balcony from where Nelson Mandels gave his first speech after being released from prison, that make history come alive. It's also amazing that for such recent history, few people like to discuss the legacy of apartheid. There seems to be a fragile peace held together by the character and vision of Nelson Mandela for a "Rainbow Nation" were all live together in harmony. But at the same time, high crime resulting from sky high unemployment and a new "economic apartheid" where white South Africans still control the wealth in the country seem to pull at the seams of Mandela's dream.
But enough of my political editorializing, I have to make mention of the fantastic eats. And were there many places offering tasty treats, too many to mention. I did overindulge, and pribably will pay for it with tighter belt lines, but everything was so delicious, including the best prawns i can honestly say i've ever eaten. The meat was so sweet, they tasted like mini lobsters, to quote Christine. Time to head off to bed to rest up for tomorrow's 6 hour drive.
-Joe
So few days, so many things to do. We did the normal tourist activities, like the requisite visit to the beautiful Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and a drive along the scenic Atlantic Coast. The visit was not without is disappointments, however. Robben Island, the UNESCO World Heritage Site that was the site of imprisonment for many in the anti-apartheid movement including Nelson Mandela, was completely sold out. Bummer. Then, the rotating cable car that takes people to the top of famously beautiful Table Mountain was closed for annual maintenance. Double Bummer. But we made due with ither various interesting activities to fill the time.
One was the absolute fantastic walking tour we took of Cape Town today, which traced the historical roots of the area and the emergence and fall of Apartheid. Its fascinating to see all the places, like Archbishop Desmond Tutu's church or the balcony from where Nelson Mandels gave his first speech after being released from prison, that make history come alive. It's also amazing that for such recent history, few people like to discuss the legacy of apartheid. There seems to be a fragile peace held together by the character and vision of Nelson Mandela for a "Rainbow Nation" were all live together in harmony. But at the same time, high crime resulting from sky high unemployment and a new "economic apartheid" where white South Africans still control the wealth in the country seem to pull at the seams of Mandela's dream.
But enough of my political editorializing, I have to make mention of the fantastic eats. And were there many places offering tasty treats, too many to mention. I did overindulge, and pribably will pay for it with tighter belt lines, but everything was so delicious, including the best prawns i can honestly say i've ever eaten. The meat was so sweet, they tasted like mini lobsters, to quote Christine. Time to head off to bed to rest up for tomorrow's 6 hour drive.
-Joe
Thursday, July 28, 2011
We made it to Cape Town, after a modest 40 hours of travel...
So Christine and I are finally settling into our very fine hotel in Cape Town, where the weather is partly cloudy with a high of around 63. I certainly can't complain. What I can complain about is the somewhat arduous task of getting here, which amounted to no small ordeal of three flights, stopovers at NY JFK and Johannesburg, and plenty of interesting charcters all along the way.
Probably the leg of the trip that tested my patience the most was getting from JFK to the oh-so-glamorous Hampton Inn in Jamaica, Queens. On paper, it sounded like a breeze, a simple shuttle ride from the terminal to the hotel, and voila, we're there for a good night's rest before starting the 14 1/2 hour flight to South Africa the next day. I couldn't be more wrong, with it ending up being a harrowing .7 mile debacle that took 90 minutes to complete. To add nsult to injury, the hotel's restaurant was out of service, so we ended up having a fine dinner delivered from Domino's. Yum, such authentic style New York pizza.
And answer me this, I know it's a big deal to take a baby on any flight for almost any parent, but why subject a baby and the fellow pasengers to 14 1/2 hours of sheer screaming hell? Is there really value for pictures of "baby's first safari?" Thank God for earplugs.
Well time for me to call the concierge for a massage appointment. I need something to unwind from all the stress of travel, and a massage sound like it will fit the bill.
- Joe
Probably the leg of the trip that tested my patience the most was getting from JFK to the oh-so-glamorous Hampton Inn in Jamaica, Queens. On paper, it sounded like a breeze, a simple shuttle ride from the terminal to the hotel, and voila, we're there for a good night's rest before starting the 14 1/2 hour flight to South Africa the next day. I couldn't be more wrong, with it ending up being a harrowing .7 mile debacle that took 90 minutes to complete. To add nsult to injury, the hotel's restaurant was out of service, so we ended up having a fine dinner delivered from Domino's. Yum, such authentic style New York pizza.
And answer me this, I know it's a big deal to take a baby on any flight for almost any parent, but why subject a baby and the fellow pasengers to 14 1/2 hours of sheer screaming hell? Is there really value for pictures of "baby's first safari?" Thank God for earplugs.
Well time for me to call the concierge for a massage appointment. I need something to unwind from all the stress of travel, and a massage sound like it will fit the bill.
- Joe
Friday, July 22, 2011
South African Adventures
Anyone who knows me, knows I love animals. I enjoy zoos, wild animal parks, and even wildlife refuges and can stand for hours watching animals in their respective habitats. Therefore, it is not difficult to believe why I'm looking forward to our trip this year, a South African Safari!!!!!
In just a few days, Joe and I are embarking on our South African Adventure. This trip -- organized by &Beyond of South African Airlines -- allows us the opportunity to see and experience a lot of South Africa. We are going to drive ourselves (on the left side!!!!) from Cape Town along the southern coast to various small towns (where we will also do some whale watching). After a short flight from the Port Elizabeth Airport to Durban, we will continue our drive up the Eastern Coast (perhaps even through Swaziland) to Kruger National Park and to the game reserves of Makasa, Pongola. and Sabi Sabi. It is Winter in South Africa when the bush is at its thinnest, so game viewing is easier, and the temperatures are mild (maximum 20 to 23°C). I can't wait to get my opportunity to be face to face with a lion or elephant or giraffe (not so close as to feel their breath). Below is a link to &Beyond. We'll do our best to keep updating (with pictures!), I don't know how much internet access we'll have on the plains of South Africa.
Tot later en gelukkig reis (until later and happy journey in Afrikaans)
--Christine
&Beyond
I have already gone onto Google Maps and mapped out our itinerary . . . click on the links below to take a look.
South Africa Part 1
South Africa Part 2
In just a few days, Joe and I are embarking on our South African Adventure. This trip -- organized by &Beyond of South African Airlines -- allows us the opportunity to see and experience a lot of South Africa. We are going to drive ourselves (on the left side!!!!) from Cape Town along the southern coast to various small towns (where we will also do some whale watching). After a short flight from the Port Elizabeth Airport to Durban, we will continue our drive up the Eastern Coast (perhaps even through Swaziland) to Kruger National Park and to the game reserves of Makasa, Pongola. and Sabi Sabi. It is Winter in South Africa when the bush is at its thinnest, so game viewing is easier, and the temperatures are mild (maximum 20 to 23°C). I can't wait to get my opportunity to be face to face with a lion or elephant or giraffe (not so close as to feel their breath). Below is a link to &Beyond. We'll do our best to keep updating (with pictures!), I don't know how much internet access we'll have on the plains of South Africa.
Tot later en gelukkig reis (until later and happy journey in Afrikaans)
--Christine
&Beyond
I have already gone onto Google Maps and mapped out our itinerary . . . click on the links below to take a look.
South Africa Part 1
South Africa Part 2
Friday, June 18, 2010
Slowly Winding Down
The activities director at our current hotel, Efrain (he's like a cruise director) keeps asking "what activity do you want to do next? What can I schedule you for? Hiking? Biking? Horesback riding? Fishing?" to which my response has been "I'll let you know." It's true, part of vacation must be scheduled and planned, for example there is no way to see Machu Picchu if one does not have a plan in mind . . . but here, in the Colca Valley? A schedule of activities is not necessary . . . so today was spent on two very simple things. 1) a mini-hike to the next town and 2) SPA!!!
First the hike . . . Joe and I decided that we didn't want to wait for a guide to take us the 2 miles down river to the closest town. We were going to walk the trail, which is safe and marked, on our own . . . so that's what we did. Initially, all seemed to be going splendidly, well except for the more than occasional cow patty or llama dropping, but we manuevered our way through. Up and down hills on a dusty trail that often had a sheer drop to one side (and after probably ingesting more than a dozen gnats) , we made it about half way to our destination. We had hiked up a hill, passed some burros and cows, to what appeared to be a flat, straight path that would lead us to the town which was now visible in the distance. Proud of what we'd accomplished so far, we made our way passed some new construction but that construction was being guarded by a dog. Now, there was a small stone wall separating the road from the dog and we felt confident that we could pass with ease, despite the barking and growling we could hear. As we proceeded, Joe noticed that the wall wasn't entirely complete and the dog had popped out to do his job. We tried our very best Cesar Milan tactics on the dog . . . we walked erect and made no eye contact, we made that little shish sound Cesar does, we spoke to it in Spanish . . . nothing worked and the dog advanced on us, baring his teeth and growling. We slowly crept back because everyone knows you shouldn't run from a dog, and he followed us until he felt we were securely out of his area. Joe and I tried once again to pass the dog, but to no avail. We had to turn back and head to the hotel . . . thwarted.
To make ourselves feel better, on to activity two, the spa . . . after our harrowing morning adventure, Joe and I went to the spa. It was quite luxiourious and I also spent some time in the steam room as the air here is so dry, my whole being is dehydrated. We spent the rest of the afternoon just relaxing, reading, and winding down our trip. It seems that more guests have arrived, we are no longer (literally) the only guests at the hotel so the end of our trip comes at a fortuitous time. We had lovely dinner with the father/daughter pair of Bruce and Alannah again . . . we were the last people in the restaurant.
Tomorrow's activity . . . packing.
Buenas Noches . . .
Christine
First the hike . . . Joe and I decided that we didn't want to wait for a guide to take us the 2 miles down river to the closest town. We were going to walk the trail, which is safe and marked, on our own . . . so that's what we did. Initially, all seemed to be going splendidly, well except for the more than occasional cow patty or llama dropping, but we manuevered our way through. Up and down hills on a dusty trail that often had a sheer drop to one side (and after probably ingesting more than a dozen gnats) , we made it about half way to our destination. We had hiked up a hill, passed some burros and cows, to what appeared to be a flat, straight path that would lead us to the town which was now visible in the distance. Proud of what we'd accomplished so far, we made our way passed some new construction but that construction was being guarded by a dog. Now, there was a small stone wall separating the road from the dog and we felt confident that we could pass with ease, despite the barking and growling we could hear. As we proceeded, Joe noticed that the wall wasn't entirely complete and the dog had popped out to do his job. We tried our very best Cesar Milan tactics on the dog . . . we walked erect and made no eye contact, we made that little shish sound Cesar does, we spoke to it in Spanish . . . nothing worked and the dog advanced on us, baring his teeth and growling. We slowly crept back because everyone knows you shouldn't run from a dog, and he followed us until he felt we were securely out of his area. Joe and I tried once again to pass the dog, but to no avail. We had to turn back and head to the hotel . . . thwarted.
To make ourselves feel better, on to activity two, the spa . . . after our harrowing morning adventure, Joe and I went to the spa. It was quite luxiourious and I also spent some time in the steam room as the air here is so dry, my whole being is dehydrated. We spent the rest of the afternoon just relaxing, reading, and winding down our trip. It seems that more guests have arrived, we are no longer (literally) the only guests at the hotel so the end of our trip comes at a fortuitous time. We had lovely dinner with the father/daughter pair of Bruce and Alannah again . . . we were the last people in the restaurant.
Tomorrow's activity . . . packing.
Buenas Noches . . .
Christine
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Condores, Caballos, & Cuy - Oh My!
Another active day from the vacation front, as well, as active as one could be while on vacation.
First up - the condors. Christine and I woke up at 5:30am (yup, you read that right, yet another 5:30am wake up call, and yes, we are on vacation) to get an early rise to see the Andean Condors. These are the world's largest flight capable birds, with wingspans of nearly 12 feet. We departed the hotel at 7am to get a headstart on the variety of European tourists who would also descend upon the area to see the condors as well. Luckily we made it in time, and our guide, Jeymi, was excellent at pointing out where they were. Indeed these are some of the most amazing creatures that I have ever seen. However, they don't like noise, and unfortunately, there was a rowdy group of British kids on their gap year who apparently had more interest in making loud conversation than watching the flight of the condors. People gave them nasty looks, but did nothing - but leave it to my sister to use her teacher voice to say, "SHHHHH!!! Be quiet!!!" which elicited an almost immediate silence from the group. Silence didn't last for long as throngs of Germans, French, Brits, Aussies, and citizens of nations from around the globe descended on this cliff sitting some 10,000 ft above the canyon below. Still, the sight of the condors was amazing, although I didn't really need to see one expel solid waste (to put it politely).
From the Condor Cross (as it is known) it was a journey back to the hotel with various stops at some amazing Inca and Pre-Inca sites. After a nice lunch and a nap, it was time for a second activity - horseback riding. We took a nice 2 hour ride up the hillside of the valley to get a great view. However, Christine seemed to be saddled with the horse who had a mind of its own. When the guide and I were on the left side of the road, Christine was on the right, and vice versa. At some points Christine's horse just didn't feel like climbing and would just stop in place.
After a refreshing dip in the thermal plunge pool and a shower to wash off the trail dust, it was time for a cooking lesson with the hotel chef. He prepared an amazingly simple dish of quinoa and alpaca filet that was absolutely delicious. Christine watched intently as I furiously took notes. The results were amazing, and hopefully we can be sharing the recipe in the future.
Finally we met the other two guests staying at our hotel, the father-daughter team of Bruce and Alana, both originally from Manhattan Beach via Colorado. Very nice people, and we had very good conversation over dinner and drinks. It was kind of odd because Alana kept calling her dad by his first name, and it was evident that her parents were divorced. We had a very raucous conversation, at times overpowering the group of 17 sitting right next to us (I think partly because Bruce and Alana had a bit too much wine...). However, Christine being the introvert found it very tiring, so we retired back to the room. I imagine we'll be bumping into them over the next couple of days.
Oh, and last but not least, I ate cuy - or known to us as guinea pig. It was breaded, fried, and mixed in with a salad. So what did it taste like? Sorry to say that old colloquialism, but it tasted like chicken.
Hasta Luego
- Joe
First up - the condors. Christine and I woke up at 5:30am (yup, you read that right, yet another 5:30am wake up call, and yes, we are on vacation) to get an early rise to see the Andean Condors. These are the world's largest flight capable birds, with wingspans of nearly 12 feet. We departed the hotel at 7am to get a headstart on the variety of European tourists who would also descend upon the area to see the condors as well. Luckily we made it in time, and our guide, Jeymi, was excellent at pointing out where they were. Indeed these are some of the most amazing creatures that I have ever seen. However, they don't like noise, and unfortunately, there was a rowdy group of British kids on their gap year who apparently had more interest in making loud conversation than watching the flight of the condors. People gave them nasty looks, but did nothing - but leave it to my sister to use her teacher voice to say, "SHHHHH!!! Be quiet!!!" which elicited an almost immediate silence from the group. Silence didn't last for long as throngs of Germans, French, Brits, Aussies, and citizens of nations from around the globe descended on this cliff sitting some 10,000 ft above the canyon below. Still, the sight of the condors was amazing, although I didn't really need to see one expel solid waste (to put it politely).
From the Condor Cross (as it is known) it was a journey back to the hotel with various stops at some amazing Inca and Pre-Inca sites. After a nice lunch and a nap, it was time for a second activity - horseback riding. We took a nice 2 hour ride up the hillside of the valley to get a great view. However, Christine seemed to be saddled with the horse who had a mind of its own. When the guide and I were on the left side of the road, Christine was on the right, and vice versa. At some points Christine's horse just didn't feel like climbing and would just stop in place.
After a refreshing dip in the thermal plunge pool and a shower to wash off the trail dust, it was time for a cooking lesson with the hotel chef. He prepared an amazingly simple dish of quinoa and alpaca filet that was absolutely delicious. Christine watched intently as I furiously took notes. The results were amazing, and hopefully we can be sharing the recipe in the future.
Finally we met the other two guests staying at our hotel, the father-daughter team of Bruce and Alana, both originally from Manhattan Beach via Colorado. Very nice people, and we had very good conversation over dinner and drinks. It was kind of odd because Alana kept calling her dad by his first name, and it was evident that her parents were divorced. We had a very raucous conversation, at times overpowering the group of 17 sitting right next to us (I think partly because Bruce and Alana had a bit too much wine...). However, Christine being the introvert found it very tiring, so we retired back to the room. I imagine we'll be bumping into them over the next couple of days.
Oh, and last but not least, I ate cuy - or known to us as guinea pig. It was breaded, fried, and mixed in with a salad. So what did it taste like? Sorry to say that old colloquialism, but it tasted like chicken.
Hasta Luego
- Joe
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
The Journey and the Destination Were Well Worth It
As I write this tonight, I am sitting next to a warm fire in my cabanita snuggled up to my llama hot water bottle. Though we had an early morning and a very long drive, all of it was worth it to be able to enjoy the comforts of our current location, Las Cabanitas del Colca.
We began the morning in Arequipa, Peru's second largest city, that sits at an elevation of 8,000 feet and traveled to the Colca Valley 4 1/2 hours away reaching heights of 16,000 feet along the way. The journey took us through various ecological landscapes from the scrub brush of the lower highlands on which the threatened vicuna, the national treasure of the Andes which comes from the camelid family (think smaller and skinnier alpaca), thrive to the wetlands on which alpaca and the Peruvian Coot feed. It was an amazing landscape that can only be described as lunar -- vast sandy deserts with only large boulders that gave way to neon green covered rocks and marsh-like canals. We drove through the caldera of an extinct volcano and were at one point surrounded by some of the tallest mountains in Peru, including Ampata where archeologists discovered the intact Inca Mummy Girl, Juanita.
The highest point of our journey landed us at the Mirador De Los Andes, 16,000 feet above sea level. We were only allowed a short 10 minute stop as the air is so thin, one can easily get winded and begin to feel the effects of altitude sickness. Unfortunately, by this time in our travels I REALLY needed to use the bathroom . . . and the only one available was a stone hut a few hundered feet from the road . . . UP an embankment. It took everything I had not to run . . . or pee in my pants . . . and as I rushed into the makeshift bathroom which comprised primarily of a hole in the ground and which lacked a door, my disgust at the facilities gave way to relief. In addtion to peeing at the highest elevation I have ever been, we also took part in a local ritual of stacking rocks as a prayer and wish to the Sun god . . . here's hoping my wish comes true.
The Colca Valley lies at an elevation of about 11,000 feet and I have yet to aclimate to the altitude, though Joe believes it's psychological . . . let's just say hiking and bike riding are two activities I am putting off for awhile. However, the activity I most definitely took part in was feeding the baby alpacas and llamas!!!! We were able to bottle feed four babies, all about 2 months old and sooooo CUTE! Inti (Moon) is my favorite llama and Brownie is Joe's. I really like to take home and have my own llama . . . but I guess I'll have to be satisfied taking home a llama water bottle and an alpaca scarf.
Tomorrow, we're off to see the Andean Condors early in the morning, so buenas noches.
--Christine
We began the morning in Arequipa, Peru's second largest city, that sits at an elevation of 8,000 feet and traveled to the Colca Valley 4 1/2 hours away reaching heights of 16,000 feet along the way. The journey took us through various ecological landscapes from the scrub brush of the lower highlands on which the threatened vicuna, the national treasure of the Andes which comes from the camelid family (think smaller and skinnier alpaca), thrive to the wetlands on which alpaca and the Peruvian Coot feed. It was an amazing landscape that can only be described as lunar -- vast sandy deserts with only large boulders that gave way to neon green covered rocks and marsh-like canals. We drove through the caldera of an extinct volcano and were at one point surrounded by some of the tallest mountains in Peru, including Ampata where archeologists discovered the intact Inca Mummy Girl, Juanita.
The highest point of our journey landed us at the Mirador De Los Andes, 16,000 feet above sea level. We were only allowed a short 10 minute stop as the air is so thin, one can easily get winded and begin to feel the effects of altitude sickness. Unfortunately, by this time in our travels I REALLY needed to use the bathroom . . . and the only one available was a stone hut a few hundered feet from the road . . . UP an embankment. It took everything I had not to run . . . or pee in my pants . . . and as I rushed into the makeshift bathroom which comprised primarily of a hole in the ground and which lacked a door, my disgust at the facilities gave way to relief. In addtion to peeing at the highest elevation I have ever been, we also took part in a local ritual of stacking rocks as a prayer and wish to the Sun god . . . here's hoping my wish comes true.
The Colca Valley lies at an elevation of about 11,000 feet and I have yet to aclimate to the altitude, though Joe believes it's psychological . . . let's just say hiking and bike riding are two activities I am putting off for awhile. However, the activity I most definitely took part in was feeding the baby alpacas and llamas!!!! We were able to bottle feed four babies, all about 2 months old and sooooo CUTE! Inti (Moon) is my favorite llama and Brownie is Joe's. I really like to take home and have my own llama . . . but I guess I'll have to be satisfied taking home a llama water bottle and an alpaca scarf.
Tomorrow, we're off to see the Andean Condors early in the morning, so buenas noches.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
And so it comes to an end . . .
Apologies for the very delayed post. The last few days of our cruise, which officially ended and deposited us in Reykjavik yesterday mornin...
